A good wool sweater announces itself before you take it off the hanger. It is heavier than it looks, a little stiff at first, and it smells faintly of the cupboard it lived in for years. Turn it over and you can see the hands that made it, or the machine that tried to imitate those hands, in every row of stitches. Few garments in a vintage shop carry as much evidence of their own making.
For anyone shopping vintage in Canada, knitwear has a deeper story than most. From the hand-knit sweaters of the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island to the graphic zip cardigans that turned up at curling clubs and hockey rinks, wool has been part of how this country dresses for winter. This guide covers the main kinds of vintage knit sweaters you are likely to meet, how to judge them, how they should fit and how to look after wool so it lasts another few decades.
Cowichan sweaters and the people who make them
Cowichan sweaters come from the Coast Salish peoples of the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island. The tradition grew in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, combining long-established Coast Salish skills in spinning and weaving wool with knitting techniques introduced by settlers. The result is a distinctive garment: thick, heavy and warm, knitted from hand-spun wool in its natural colours of cream, grey, brown and black.
A genuine Cowichan sweater is usually knitted in one piece or in large sections with minimal seams, often with a shawl collar and a zip or button front, and decorated with motifs such as eagles, whales, thunderbirds, deer or geometric bands. The wool keeps much of its natural lanolin, which makes it water-resistant and gives it a slightly oily, sheepy feel. These sweaters were made for working outdoors in coastal weather, and they do that job very well.
It matters to be honest about names. Many commercial sweaters from the mid-century onward copied the look, and the phrase "Cowichan-style" is often used loosely in vintage shops. Those knits can be lovely garments in their own right, but they are not the same as a sweater made by a Cowichan knitter. If you care about the distinction, look for hand-spun, undyed wool, irregularities that show hand knitting, and any information the seller can share about where the piece came from.
Curling sweaters, pattern kits and home knits
Alongside the Cowichan tradition, Canada developed a strong home-knitting culture, and through the mid-twentieth century pattern companies sold kits for chunky zip cardigans with bold graphic panels. Hockey players, curlers, skiers, deer, geese and stylised maple leaves all appeared on these sweaters, which are often called curling sweaters because they were so popular at the rink.
These are some of the most charming knits you can find. Because they were made at home from a pattern, each one is slightly different: a variation in colour here, an extra row there, a mistake that the knitter decided to keep. They tend to be made from heavy wool or a wool blend and fasten with a zip, often with a shawl or stand collar.
When you look at one, check the zip carefully. Many were replaced over the years, and a stiff, rusty or broken zip can be expensive to replace on a heavy knit. Look at the graphic panels for moth holes, which often hide in the darker colours, and check the cuffs for stretch.
A sweater made by hand never quite repeats itself, and that small wobble in the pattern is the whole reason to want it.
Team knits and ski sweaters
The other big family of vintage knitwear is factory-made. Team sweaters for hockey and football clubs, college knits with letters or crests, and Nordic-style ski sweaters with snowflakes, stars and yoke patterns all appear regularly in vintage shops. Most were machine-knitted, often from acrylic or wool blends, which makes them lighter and easier to care for than hand-knits.
Team knits have a particular appeal in Canada. A hockey sweater-style pullover in team colours, a knit with a crest on the chest or a striped toque-and-sweater combination fits naturally into a winter wardrobe here. They are usually softer than hand-spun wool and less prone to moths if they are synthetic, though they can pill more easily.
Ski sweaters lean towards the Scandinavian look, with patterned yokes around the neck and shoulders and often a cream, navy or red base. Older ones are frequently wool and can be quite warm. They pair well with outdoor jackets and look right in a cold city without feeling like a costume.
Reading the knit: what to check
Before buying any vintage sweater, give it a slow look in good light. Wool is durable, but it has a few specific weaknesses, and some of them are hard to fix. Here is a short checklist to work through:
- Moth damage: look for small holes, especially in the front, underarms and darker areas. Hold the sweater up to the light to spot thin patches.
- Felting: if the wool feels dense, matted and stiff, the sweater may have been washed hot. Felted wool will not return to its original size.
- Stretch: pull gently at the cuffs, hem and collar. Ribbing should spring back rather than stay loose.
- Pilling: small balls of fibre are normal and can be removed, but heavy pilling suggests a weaker yarn.
- Repairs: darned patches can be charming, but check that they are secure and that the surrounding knit is sound.
- Closures: test zips and buttons on cardigans, and look at the knit around them for strain.
A small hole is not always a reason to walk away. Wool can be darned well by someone with patience, and visible mending has become a style in its own right. Just factor the work into your decision.
Fit for layering and for wearing on its own
Vintage knit sweaters fit differently depending on how they were made. Hand-knits and kit cardigans tend to be boxy and generous, with dropped shoulders and wide sleeves. That makes them excellent outer layers over a shirt or a light sweater, but they can feel bulky under a coat. Machine-knit team and ski sweaters are usually closer to the body and easier to layer under a jacket.
Think about where you plan to wear the sweater. If it will replace a jacket on mild autumn days, a looser shape is ideal. If you want it under a parka through a Toronto January, choose something closer-fitting so your coat still closes comfortably. Check the sleeve length too: heavy wool can grow a little with wear, but it will not shrink back neatly if it is too long.
Length matters. A heavy cardigan that ends at the hip looks good over jeans and work trousers, while a longer, thigh-length knit can swamp a shorter frame. Try it with the trousers you wear most and look at the outline in a mirror.
How to style vintage knits
Heavy, patterned knits are statements, so give them space. A Cowichan or curling sweater looks best with simple trousers, such as dark denim, cords or wool trousers in a neutral colour, and a plain shirt or tee underneath. Leather boots or sturdy shoes balance the weight of the knit.
Lighter team and ski knits are more flexible. A crested knit works over a collared shirt for a slightly preppy look, or on its own with jeans for something relaxed. A ski sweater can go under an open shell or a down vest, letting the yoke show at the neck.
Colour is easy with natural wool. Cream, grey, brown and black sit naturally with almost everything in a vintage wardrobe. With brighter team or ski knits, let the sweater carry the colour and keep the rest of the outfit muted.
Caring for wool so it lasts
The best thing you can do for a wool sweater is to wash it rarely. Wool naturally resists odours and dirt, and airing it out after wearing is often enough. When it does need cleaning, hand wash in cool water with a gentle wool detergent. Do not rub or wring, since agitation combined with warm water is what causes felting.
After washing, press out the water gently, roll the sweater in a towel to absorb more and then lay it flat to dry, reshaping it as you go. Never hang a wet wool sweater, because the weight of the water will stretch it. For hand-spun Cowichan wool, some owners prefer to wash even less often and spot-clean marks, so the lanolin stays in the fibre.
Moths are the real threat in storage. Store sweaters clean, since moths are drawn to body oils and food traces, and fold them in drawers or breathable bags with cedar or lavender. Check them a few times through the warm months. Remove pills with a sweater comb or a fabric shaver, working gently along the surface rather than scraping.
A sweater for the long Canadian winter
Vintage knit sweaters reward the people who take a little time with them. Learn which ones are hand-made and which are factory knits. Check for moth holes and felting before you buy. Choose a fit that matches how you will actually wear the sweater, and treat the wool kindly once it is home.
Knitwear comes through our shops with the weekly drops alongside the rest of our vintage clothing, though no particular style or maker is ever certain. When a good one turns up, try it on, feel its weight on your shoulders and imagine it on the coldest morning of the year. If it seems ready for that day, it probably is.
