Tennis has always dressed a little differently from other sports. While football and hockey fans wrapped themselves in bold team colours, tennis spent much of the twentieth century in white: crisp knit shirts, pleated shorts and skirts, cable sweaters thrown over the shoulders between sets. Then, almost overnight in the seventies and eighties, it exploded into colour, with pinstripes, bold panels and terry headbands that are still instantly recognisable.
That swing between restraint and flamboyance is what makes vintage tennis apparel so rewarding to wear. You can lean into the clean, quiet side of the sport, or go for the louder, more playful eras, and both translate easily into everyday clothes. This guide walks through the key pieces, what to look for in each, and how to wear them without looking as if you are due on court at two.
01. The tradition of tennis whites
White clothing on the tennis court has a long history. It was practical in hot weather, it hid sweat better than darker colours, and it signalled a certain idea of respectability at the clubs where the sport grew up. Wimbledon still keeps a famously strict all-white dress code for players, and that tradition shaped how tennis clothing looked for decades.
For vintage hunters, this means a lot of tennis apparel from the middle of the century and earlier is white, cream or off-white, often with only a thin stripe of colour at the collar or cuffs. These pieces are wonderfully versatile today. A white knit polo or a cream cable-knit sweater fits into almost any wardrobe, and the quiet details, like a small embroidered logo or a coloured tipping on the collar, reward a closer look.
The challenge with whites is condition. White fabrics show every stain and every bit of yellowing, and older cotton can take on a creamy tone with age. Some people like that softness; others prefer a brighter white. Either way, inspect collars, underarms and cuffs carefully before buying.
02. The tennis sweater
If one piece sums up classic tennis style, it is the cable-knit V-neck sweater, usually in white or cream, with stripes of colour around the neckline and sometimes at the waist. It shares its roots with cricket clothing, and it was worn by players between sets and by spectators who wanted to look the part.
A vintage tennis sweater is one of the easiest pieces to wear today. Over a plain white tee with straight jeans, it looks relaxed and bright. Over a button-down shirt with tailored trousers, it feels smart. Thrown over the shoulders on a cool summer evening, it nods to the sport's leisurely image without trying too hard.
Check the cables for snags and the ribbing for stretch, and look closely at the coloured stripes around the neck, which can bleed onto the white if the sweater was washed too warm. Wool pieces should be checked for moth damage, particularly around the underarms and collar.
03. Polo shirts and the knit collar
The tennis polo, with its knit collar, short button placket and slightly longer back hem, is one of the most influential garments in sportswear. Players in the early twentieth century wanted something more comfortable than long-sleeved woven shirts, and the knit polo became the answer. Lacoste and Fred Perry are the two names most associated with its early popularity, each marked by a small embroidered emblem on the chest.
Vintage tennis polos are usually made from cotton piqué, a textured knit that breathes well and holds its shape. Older examples often have a slightly shorter, boxier body than modern versions. When buying, check that the collar still lies flat and has not curled at the points, and look for small holes along the placket and hem.
A good piqué polo works with almost anything: chinos, jeans, pleated shorts, or tucked into wide trousers with a belt. In bright colours, it adds a burst of energy to a neutral outfit. In white, it is the starting point for countless summer looks.
Tennis clothing has always had two moods: the quiet club afternoon and the loud centre-court entrance. Vintage lets you pick either one.
04. When tennis discovered colour
In the seventies and eighties, tennis clothing changed dramatically. Bold colours, stripes, panels and pinstripes appeared, and players became style icons. Björn Borg's headband and pinstriped shirts, John McEnroe's collared shirts and track tops, and later the vivid outfits of the early nineties all helped turn tennis gear into something people wore far from the court.
This was also the era when track jackets and warm-up suits became central to tennis style. Players wore them on and off court, and fans bought them for everyday wear. Many featured contrasting panels across the chest and sleeves, ribbed cuffs and a neat collar. Italian, French and German brands were especially prominent in this period, and their track tops still turn up regularly in vintage.
Today these colourful pieces can be easier to wear than you might expect. A navy and white track jacket over a plain tee and dark jeans is simple and sharp. A bolder piece, with red, yellow or teal panels, works best with neutral trousers and minimal accessories.
05. Shorts, skirts and dresses
Vintage tennis shorts tend to be short, with a neat waistband and sometimes a pleat at the front. They are often made of cotton twill or a poly-cotton blend, and they work well in summer with a tucked-in polo or a loose tee. If the length feels too short, look for slightly longer styles from the eighties, which often sit closer to mid-thigh.
Tennis skirts, often pleated and in white, have had their own revival, and vintage examples are a lovely find. They pair well with a fitted polo or knit tank, or with an oversized sweatshirt for a more casual contrast. Tennis dresses, with their simple A-line shapes and clean lines, can be worn with sneakers in summer or layered with a cardigan in autumn.
When buying any of these pieces, check the elastic and waistbands, as older elastic can lose its stretch. Look for pleats that still hold their shape and fabric that is not too thin or worn at the seams.
06. Headbands, wristbands and small accessories
Terry headbands and wristbands are among the most recognisable tennis accessories, and they are associated in particular with the seventies and eighties. In vintage, you might find them in white with a coloured stripe, or in bold colours with a small logo. They are an easy, inexpensive way to add a nod to tennis style.
Wearing a headband outside a sporting context takes some confidence, but it can work, especially with a relaxed summer outfit. A thin terry wristband can also add a subtle detail to a tee and shorts. Other accessories worth looking for include visors, tennis caps with a small logo, and canvas or leather tennis bags, which can make excellent everyday bags.
A quick list of details worth checking on accessories:
- Terry headbands and wristbands should still stretch and snap back; old elastic can feel crunchy.
- Visors and caps often have sweatbands that discolour or crack inside.
- Canvas bags should have strong straps, intact zips and no rot in the lining.
- Leather trims should be supple, not dry or flaking.
07. Wearing tennis style off the court
The easiest approach is to take one tennis piece and pair it with everyday basics. A tennis sweater with jeans, a polo with chinos, a track jacket over a tee: each of these lets the tennis element stand out without making the outfit feel themed. Avoid wearing head-to-toe white with a headband and wristbands, unless you are actually heading to a club.
Tennis style suits Toronto summers especially well. The fabrics are light and breathable, the colours are fresh, and pieces like polos and shorts are designed for heat. Around the time of the Canadian Open, which alternates between Toronto and Montreal, you may notice a few more tennis-inspired outfits around the city.
In cooler months, the tennis sweater and track jacket come into their own. Layer a cable-knit sweater under a wool coat, or wear a track jacket over a hoodie for a sporty look in spring and autumn.
08. Caring for whites, knits and synthetics
Wash white cotton pieces separately in cool or lukewarm water, with a gentle detergent. For yellowing, a long soak in an oxygen-based whitener can help, but always test on a small area first and avoid chlorine bleach, which can weaken old fibres and yellow some synthetics further. Dry whites out of direct sunlight if you want to avoid further fading or uneven tone.
Hand wash wool tennis sweaters and dry them flat. Synthetic track jackets can usually be machine washed on a gentle cycle, inside out and zipped, then hung to dry. Avoid the dryer for almost all vintage tennis pieces, since heat can shrink cotton, damage elastic and warp synthetic fabrics.
09. Choosing your first tennis piece
If you are just starting out, a white or cream cable-knit sweater is a wonderful first piece. It is versatile, comfortable and brings a touch of tennis history to any outfit. A classic piqué polo is another excellent choice, especially for summer. If you prefer something bolder, look for a track jacket with clean colour blocking and a neat collar.
Whichever you choose, take a moment to check the condition and the fit, and think about how it will work with the rest of your wardrobe. Vintage sportswear from the tennis world tends to be well made, and with a little care it can easily outlast the next wave of tennis-inspired trends.
