There is a particular kind of track jacket that looks like it was made for someone fast. Narrow through the body, a stand collar that zips right up to the chin, a contrast stripe running down each sleeve, and a small cat caught in mid-leap on the chest. Over the decades, that cat became one of the most recognisable marks in sportswear. It belongs to Puma, and it has been worn on football pitches, running tracks, racing circuits and city streets for the better part of seventy years.
Vintage Puma tends to live in the shadow of its louder cousins, and that is part of its appeal. It is easier to find good pieces that have not been picked over, and the brand's history touches some of the most memorable moments in sport. This guide covers the main families of vintage Puma, from track tops to football shirts to motorsport gear, along with what to check and how to wear it.
01. A brother, a town and a cat
Puma's story begins in Herzogenaurach, a small town in Bavaria, where brothers Adolf and Rudolf Dassler ran a shoe company together before the Second World War. After the war the brothers split, and in 1948 Rudolf founded the company that became Puma, while Adolf went on to build Adidas. The two firms stayed in the same town, on opposite sides of the river, and their rivalry has become one of the best-known stories in sportswear.
That shared origin explains why vintage Puma and vintage Adidas often look like relatives. Both brands grew up making football boots and running spikes, both moved into track and training clothing, and both developed strong visual signatures. Where Adidas built its identity around three stripes, Puma settled on the Formstrip, the curving band that first appeared on its shoes, and the leaping cat logo.
For a collector, it is helpful to know this background without getting lost in it. The point is simply that Puma has deep roots in athletic performance, and the clothing reflects that in its cuts, fabrics and details.
02. Reading the logos
Puma's logos have changed over the years, and they offer some general clues to age, though none is conclusive on its own.
- The leaping cat: the silhouette of a cat in mid-jump, usually facing right, has been Puma's mark for decades. Small changes in proportion and detail appear across eras, but it has remained recognisable throughout.
- The PUMA wordmark: bold capital letters, often paired with the cat. On older pieces the wordmark and cat may appear as a woven label or embroidered patch rather than a print.
- The Formstrip: mainly a shoe detail, this curving band is the brand's other signature. On clothing you will more often see straight sleeve stripes and piping, with the Formstrip appearing only now and then as a printed or woven echo.
Labels on older Puma clothing frequently show country of manufacture, and many collectors look for pieces made in West Germany or elsewhere in Europe as a sign of earlier production. Treat this as a hint rather than a rule. Puma, like most sportswear companies, made clothing in many places over the years and licensed production in different markets, which means labels can vary widely.
03. Track jackets: the heart of the archive
The track jacket is where vintage Puma shines. Most date from the seventies through the nineties, and they come in a few main styles.
Tricot track tops
Smooth, slightly shiny polyester tricot was the standard track fabric for decades. Puma tricot jackets usually have a stand collar, a full zip, ribbed cuffs and hem, and contrast piping or stripes down the sleeves. They tend to fit close to the body, with high armholes and a short length that suits a runner rather than a weekend layer.
Nylon shells
Lighter nylon jackets, often with mesh linings and bold colour blocking, became more common in the eighties and nineties. These work well as spring layers and often feature larger logos and more playful colour combinations.
Velour and terry
Softer, more luxurious track tops in velour and terry cloth turn up from the seventies and eighties. They feel more like loungewear and have a very particular period charm.
When trying on a vintage Puma track top, pay attention to the shoulders and length. These jackets were cut for athletes, so they can feel narrow. A size up from your usual often gives a better result, especially if you plan to wear a sweatshirt underneath.
04. Football: from Pelé to Maradona
Puma's football history is a large part of why its clothing remains popular. Pelé famously wore Puma boots at the 1970 World Cup, and Diego Maradona was associated with the brand through much of his career. Johan Cruyff also had a long link with Puma, and his decision to wear a shirt with two stripes instead of three while playing for the Netherlands at the 1974 World Cup, because of his Puma contract, is a well-known piece of football lore.
In vintage terms, Puma football clothing falls into a few categories:
- Club and national team shirts made by Puma for various teams over the decades, often in strong colours with the cat on the chest.
- Training tops and drill tops with half zips, worn by players before matches and copied by fans.
- Warm-up jackets and rain jackets from the sidelines, usually in nylon with team crests.
Football shirts from the eighties and nineties were often cut wide and boxy, with oversized collars and shiny polyester fabrics. They make easy summer shirts for wearing over shorts or relaxed trousers. Check carefully for pulled threads and fading on printed sponsor logos, which can crack with age.
The best vintage Puma looks like it is still slightly out of breath, as if it has just come in from a long run.
05. Basketball and the Clyde connection
Puma's place in basketball history is tied to the Clyde, a suede sneaker named after Walt Frazier, the stylish New York Knicks guard of the early seventies. The shoe crossed over from the court to the street, particularly in New York, where it became a staple of early hip hop and breakdancing culture.
Puma clothing from the same circles, track tops, sweatsuits and logo tees, carries a little of that energy. While the Clyde itself is a shoe, the culture around it helps explain why Puma track jackets and sweats became part of street style rather than staying only on the track. The suede sneaker also had a memorable moment at the 1968 Olympics, where Tommie Smith carried a pair of Puma suedes onto the medal podium, an image that is part of sporting history.
For wardrobe purposes, the lesson is that vintage Puma has always moved easily between sport and the street. A Puma track top over a plain tee, with straight trousers and suede sneakers, is about as natural a look as sportswear gets.
06. Motorsport: speed in red and black
From the late nineties and especially through the 2000s, Puma became a major supplier of motorsport clothing, with team gear for Formula One outfits including Ferrari. This is a newer corner of vintage, but one with a strong following. Team jackets, polo shirts and caps from these years carry sponsor logos, bold colours and sharp, technical styling.
Motorsport Puma has a different feel from the brand's earlier track and football clothing. Pieces tend to be more structured, with softshell fabrics, panelled construction and many logos. Red and black dominate, though other team colours appear too. Fans of the sport wear these pieces with the same pride as football fans wear club shirts.
If you are interested in this corner, focus on condition. Softshell and bonded fabrics can delaminate with age, leaving bubbles or peeling. Printed and heat-pressed logos can crack. Look closely at the inside of jackets, where coatings sometimes start to break down first.
07. Condition checks for synthetic sportswear
Most vintage Puma is synthetic, which brings particular quirks.
- Zips: run them up and down several times. Old plastic or metal zips can jam or have missing teeth.
- Ribbing: elastic in cuffs and hems often loses its stretch over time. Pull gently and see if it springs back.
- Snags: tricot and polyester snag easily. Look for pulled threads, especially on the sleeves.
- Pilling: fleece-backed track tops can pill on the inside, which affects comfort more than appearance.
- Heat damage: synthetics can melt slightly if ironed or dried too hot. Look for shiny, stiff patches.
- Colour: bright colours, especially red and royal blue, can fade unevenly. Check under the arms and around the collar for comparison.
Washing synthetic vintage is simple: cold water, a gentle cycle, and line drying. Avoid fabric softener on technical fabrics and never use a hot dryer.
08. Wearing vintage Puma now
Because Puma clothing was built for movement, it looks best when it is allowed to stay sleek. A close-fitting track top over a plain white tee, with straight-leg jeans or tailored trousers, is a clean and easy look. If you want a more relaxed feel, pair a nylon Puma jacket with wide cargo pants and chunky sneakers.
Football shirts work in warmer months, either alone or over a long-sleeve tee. Training tops make good mid-layers in spring and fall. Motorsport jackets are bolder, so pair them with dark, simple trousers and let the jacket carry the outfit.
Vintage sportswear from Puma is never quite as easy to find as some other brands, which means each good piece feels like a small discovery. Stores that bring in new drops weekly, like ours on Queen West and at Square One, are good places to keep looking, though no rack can promise a particular brand on a particular day. When you find one with the right fit and a crisp cat on the chest, it is worth having, and it will probably make you want to walk a little faster.
