Turn an old Lacoste polo inside out and you can feel why it has lasted. The fabric is a small, honeycombed knit called petit piqué, dense enough to hold its shape and open enough to breathe on a warm afternoon. The collar is ribbed and sturdy, the placket short, the tail at the back a little longer than the front. On the chest, stitched as a small separate badge, sits a green crocodile that has become one of the most widely recognised marks in clothing.
Vintage Lacoste spans two quite different worlds. On one side is the polo shirt, the tennis-club classic that became a symbol of a certain preppy ease. On the other is the tracksuit, a bright, shiny, sometimes loud garment that found a home with street and music cultures across Europe and North America. Both carry the crocodile, and both are worth knowing if you love vintage sportswear. This guide covers each, along with the clues collectors use and how to wear them now.
A tennis player and a nickname
René Lacoste was one of the great French tennis players of the twenties, part of a celebrated group of his country's champions in that era. The press and fans nicknamed him the Crocodile, and later the Alligator in American coverage, for his tenacity on the court. He had a crocodile embroidered on the blazer he wore to tournaments, and the animal stayed with him.
Tennis at the time was played in long-sleeved woven shirts, buttoned and starched, which were hot and restrictive. Lacoste wanted something better: a short-sleeved shirt in breathable knit cotton with a soft collar that could be turned up against the sun and a longer back hem that would stay tucked in. After his playing career, he went into business with a knitwear manufacturer, and in the early thirties the shirt with the crocodile on its chest became a commercial product.
That origin matters because it explains the shirt's details. The piqué knit, the ribbed collar, the short two-button placket, the split side vents and the longer tail all came from a practical sporting need. They are the reason a vintage Lacoste polo still feels comfortable, and why it still looks right.
The shirt, piece by piece
When you pick up a vintage Lacoste polo, a few features tell you whether it has been well made and well kept. Start with the knit. Classic petit piqué should feel substantial but soft, with an even texture and no thin or shiny patches. Rub a fold between your fingers; it should spring back rather than stay creased.
Then look at the collar. A good Lacoste collar is ribbed and holds its shape, with no curling at the tips. Over time, collars can wave or flare, especially if the shirt was dried hot. A slightly soft collar is normal; a badly rippled one will not lie flat again. Check the cuffs on the sleeves too, since they can stretch or fade at a different rate from the body.
Finally, look at the croc. On most genuine pieces it is a separate embroidered badge stitched onto the chest, rather than embroidered directly into the shirt. Look at how cleanly it is attached, how the stitching around it looks, and how its colours have aged compared with the body.
Izod, preppy and the eighties
For a long stretch of the twentieth century, Lacoste shirts in the United States were produced under a licensing arrangement with Izod, and many North American vintage pieces carry the Izod Lacoste name on their labels. That partnership ended in the early nineties, after which the two brands went their separate ways. Collectors often treat Izod Lacoste as its own category, with its own quirks of fabric, fit and croc.
The early eighties were a peak moment for the shirt in North America. The preppy look, with its polos, khakis, boat shoes and sweaters tied over the shoulders, became a mainstream style and a source of some gentle satire. Popping the collar, layering two polos at once, and wearing them in every bright colour available were all part of the moment. Vintage pieces from these years come in a striking range of shades: kelly green, pale pink, banana yellow, sky blue, bright red.
For today's wearer, those colours are one of the great pleasures of vintage Lacoste. A faded eighties polo in a soft coral or mint has a character that new shirts rarely match, and it pairs beautifully with denim and neutral trousers.
A crocodile on the chest says a lot, but the knit underneath is what tells you the shirt was worth keeping.
The tracksuit side of the croc
In the eighties and nineties, Lacoste also made tracksuits and sportswear jackets that took the brand in a very different direction. These were often made from shiny nylon or smooth polyester, in bold colour blocks of navy, green, red, white and purple, with the croc on the chest and sometimes large wordmarks. They were sporty, a little flashy and very much of their time.
Those tracksuits became closely associated with youth and street culture in several places. In France, they were part of the look of many suburban neighbourhoods and of the country's growing rap scene. In Britain, Lacoste was among the European labels favoured by football terrace casuals. In North America, it found a place in hip-hop style alongside other premium sportswear. Each of those contexts gave the tracksuit a reputation quite separate from the tennis-club polo.
Today, a vintage Lacoste track jacket is one of the more distinctive pieces of vintage sportswear you can find. Look for intact zips, clean cuffs and waistbands, and shell fabric without snags or burns. Nylon can also lose its sheen in patches, so check it under good light.
Sizing, labels and other clues
Lacoste has long used its own numeric sizing on many garments, a French system where numbers rather than letters mark the size. As a rough guide, the middle numbers correspond to medium and large, but the cut has varied over the years and by product line. Always measure rather than trusting the number alone. Lay the shirt flat and check the chest from armpit to armpit and the length from the shoulder seam to the hem, then compare with a polo you like.
Collectors use several clues to place a vintage piece in time, with the usual caveat that none is conclusive. These include:
- The label style and wording, including whether it carries Izod, Chemise Lacoste or other names, and where the shirt was made.
- The shape, size and stitching of the croc badge, which has varied across eras and licences.
- The weight and feel of the piqué, with older shirts often feeling denser.
- The buttons, which on some older shirts have a distinctive look, and the length of the placket.
- The fit, since older polos tend to be shorter and fuller in the body, with a slightly wider sleeve.
Because the crocodile has been widely copied, it is worth looking at the whole garment rather than the badge alone. Quality of knit, neatness of finishing and the consistency of the labels together are more reliable than any single detail.
Fit: shorter, wider, easier
Older Lacoste and Izod Lacoste polos are often cut fuller through the chest and shorter through the body than modern slim versions. The sleeves can be wide and end higher on the arm. That boxier shape is part of their appeal now, since it suits relaxed trousers and a less fitted silhouette.
If you like a neater look, choose your usual size and tuck the shirt in, letting the longer back tail keep it in place. If you prefer a relaxed fit, go up one size and leave it untucked, though check that the longer back hem does not hang much lower than the front in a way you do not like.
Tracksuit jackets from the eighties and nineties were usually cut roomy, with elasticated or ribbed cuffs and hem. Trousers vary widely, from slim and tapered to loose and straight, and often run short in the leg. Try them with the shoes you plan to wear.
How to wear it now
The polo is one of the easiest vintage pieces to wear well, because it was designed to be simple. A faded pastel Lacoste with straight light-wash jeans and white leather sneakers is relaxed and summery. A navy or bottle green polo tucked into pleated khaki trousers with a brown belt and loafers looks quietly put together. In autumn, layer a polo under an open cardigan or a light overshirt and let the collar sit out.
The tracksuit asks for more care. Wearing a full matching set can look great, but it is a strong statement. For most days, split it. A vintage track jacket over a plain white tee and dark jeans or cargo trousers keeps the colour blocking but drops the costume. Track trousers can work with a simple grey sweatshirt and clean sneakers, especially in a darker shade.
Mixing the two sides of Lacoste is fun too. A polo under a track jacket with relaxed trousers nods to both the tennis court and the terrace, and it shows you know where the croc has been.
Looking after the croc
Piqué cotton is sturdy, but heat is hard on it. Wash polos inside out in cold water, ideally with similar colours, and dry them flat or on a hanger rather than in a hot dryer, which can shrink the body and warp the collar. Reshape the collar with your fingers while damp. Do not iron directly on the croc badge.
Nylon tracksuits should be washed cold and gently and hung to dry away from heat. Keep them away from rough surfaces and anything with velcro, which can snag the shell. Store polos folded and track jackets on a wide hanger, out of direct sunlight to protect those bright colours.
Picking your first piece
If you are new to vintage Lacoste, start with a vintage polo in a colour you already wear. Check the knit, the collar and the croc, measure it against a shirt you like, and choose the one that feels best in the hand. Once you have one, the tracksuits and the brighter eighties colours become much easier to fit into your wardrobe.
Good sportswear like this comes through Throwback Vault alongside the jerseys and denim, and a soft old polo is one of the quieter pleasures of a rack. Look past the logo to the fabric and the fit, and you may find a shirt that has already had one life on a tennis court or a terrace and is ready for another in your week.
